Flexi Plate with Carbon Fiber - Creality K1 and K1C - 235 x 235

• AnkerMake M5C
• BIQU B1
• BIQU Hurakan
• Creality CR-20
• Creality Ender 3
• Creality Ender 3 Pro
• Creality Ender 3 S1
• Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro
• Creality Ender 3 V2
• Creality Ender 3 V3 KE
• Creality Ender 3 V3 SE
• Creality Ender 5 S1
• Creality K1
• Creality K1C
• Elegoo Neptune 2
• Elegoo Neptune 2D
• Elegoo Neptune 2S
• Elegoo Neptune 3
• Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
• Elegoo Neptune 4
• Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro
• Elegoo Neptune X
• Ender 3 Neo
• Ender 5
• Ender 5 Pro
• Ender-3 V2 Neo
• Flashforge Adventurer 5
• Flashforge Adventurer 5M
• Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro
• FOKOOS Odin-5 F3’
• Geeetech A10
• JGmaker Magic
• Sovol SV06
• Tevo Up Tarantula
• TwoTrees Saphire Pro
• TwoTrees Saphire Pro

May fit:

• Anycubic Kobra
• Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo
• Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0
• Artillery Genius Pro
• Tevo Up Flash

Do you have a printer similar to what's listed under Printer Fits or May Fit?
If you have a printer similar to the one described above and believe our solution could work for your printer, please follow our easy instructions on measuring your build plate. Let us know if your printer matches our specifications or is even close! We’d love to hear about it, and you might even receive a discount on Wham Bam® merchandise for your efforts. Click here for more info.

Includes:

Flexi Plate (0.4 mm) with Carbon Fiber Build Surface (0.4 mm)

**Flexi Plate only, no Magnetic Base included**
Find the Magnetic Base here.

Size: 235 x 235 mm

• The only preparation needed is to wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) at a concentration of 90% or higher. Use fresh paper towels for this step—avoid using microfiber rags, shop rags, or any fabric that's been used before.
• Alternatively, you can use strong dish soap and rinse thoroughly with water to remove any oils.
• Ensure the sheet is thoroughly cleaned before using and avoid touching the surface with your hands to prevent leaving fingerprints.
• It’s recommended to wipe down the sheet between prints to keep the build surface free from contaminants and to prevent residue buildup from previous prints.

• Bed Temperature:

Heat the bed to the recommended temperature listed in our table, see product photos. A base temperature of 50-70°C works for most filaments that don’t require higher bed temperatures.

Carbon Fiber sheets may take longer to heat up than other build surfaces. This is especially noticeable on the Bambu machines which tend to send files to print before the surface is fully heated.

If you have an issue with adhesion you may want to consider preheating the bed to the desired temperature for about 5 minutes before starting the print. This can help resolve most adhesion issues. Some users found that adding a gcode script to the slicer start script helps to automate this.

Here is the gcode script which allows the machine to wait before sending the print, add this gcode to your start script in your slicer: G4 P600000 ; pause for 300,000 milliseconds.

It usually is placed after the M140 and M190 commands

For example:

M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;set bed temp

M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;wait for bed temp

G4 P600000 ; pause for 300,000 milliseconds

• Bed Leveling:

For printers with touch or tap bed leveling systems, set the nozzle temperature to no more than 140°C during leveling to avoid damaging the surface. While some systems tap lightly and work fine up to 170°C, others tap with more force and may leave marks at temperatures as low as 150°C.

• Hot End Temperature:

It’s advisable to keep the hot end temperature for the first layer at or below 270°C to prevent damage to the surface.

If you notice any light distortions on the surface, they will likely dissipate if the bed is reheated to the same temperature and left for 15-30 minutes.

• Adhesives:

This build surface is meant to be used with adhesion promoters like: Vision Miner Nano Polymer, Glue Stick, or Magigoo for most filaments. Certain filaments like PETG and TPU usually do not need any other adhesives. We have found that certain filaments (like PLA and PC CF) and brands stick without adhesive and you can experiment to find your best settings and functionality.

If you’re using filaments prone to significant shrinkage, such as ABS and Nylon, it’s recommended to use an enclosure like the Wham Bam HotBox to maintain a controlled ambient temperature of around 40-50°C.

A: We want to offer the highest quality and flatness possible by installing the proper industrial equipment. We recognize that during self installation one can impart a curvature between the two rigid panels and throw off the whole build surface tolerance.

A: Our true Carbon Fiber leaves a very smooth surface with the slightest of pattern only when seen in the exact cross light.

A: We are very proud of our PEX and Powder Painted PEI as well as our new Carbon Fiber Build Surfaces and find that each has its place in your lab!

Use our Powder Painted ULTEM PEI to have a great textured print surface. It is a very robust surface that is not easy to damage. Use our PEX for a wonderful smooth bottom finish and easy to print and release for most every filament. The PEX does require a bit more research and process to use well, and you must be careful when printing PETG, some ASA and other materials which may bond too well. The new Carbon Fiber Build Surface is our top of the line smooth build surface solution that is very robust and does not have issues bonding with certain filaments.

A: Yes! PETG, PEI, and PEEK all have similar molecular composition to PEI build surfaces and Wham Bam PEX and therefore tend to stick and bond and may cause damage. The polymer in the Carbon Fiber is a completely different family of plastic that does not bond with the above and other, so if you plan on printing PETG, PEI, PEEK, and even ASA you should get this build surface!